Through the Windshield, or "Slow down, Please."

May 22, 2011, Tok, AK. I talked Annie into taking another road less traveled, the Top of the World Highway that connects Dawson City, YT to Chicken, AK. TTOTW Highway is mostly gravel with infrequent and irregular patches of chip and seal surface. The scenery is much like you see from Trail Ridge Road although it is about one-third the altitude. Still, we were above tree line for much of the drive. Some of the pictures you see above were taken through the windshield.

I have the rare quality of being able to attract, then score backseat drivers. My Grandma Renard was a terrific backseat driver. She could give directions to even the most seasoned and unflappable professional driver I've ever known, my dad. I scored Grandma Renard an A. Mom inherited the gene, but failed to achieve the prominence enjoyed by Grandma Renard. On my scoring system, she barely achieved a B.

When Annie and I first met, she said little about my driving. As time has gone by these past 48 years, she has become more outspoken. "Watch that truck!" "Look out for that motorcycle, that idiot isn't even wearing a helmet!" "Can you get past that truck, I can't stand to be alongside that pointy-headed soda-jerk!" The progression has been steady and remarkable.

Today, she brought backseat driving - well, actually passenger-seat driving - to Grandma Renard's standards. Okay, I admit the road was gravel and soft in places. There were many downhill hairpin curves with steep drop offs to the river in the deep valley below. I averaged 37 MPH between Dawson and Chicken. If I had been going any slower the pines alongside the road would have passed me. My record as an excellent driver and my extremely cautious approach today notwithstanding, Annie was giving directions that would have made Grandma Renard green with envy.

She started off slowly. First, it was her left hand with palm down rising and falling as if she were applying an invisible air brake. Then, it was "Whoa now, whoa boy, there is a steep drop-off over here." The she dropped all pretense of subtlety, "Will you slow down, please!" Not a question, rather it was a directive wrapped in false courtesy." Finally, she hit the Grandma Renard gold standard, "Slow down, *&%$#@!"

In fact she surpassed Grandma Renard. I never heard even Grandma Renard say *&%$#@! We now have a new standard bearer for the backseat driving elites. Her name is Annie. You go, girl. You have earned an A+.

We are in Tok. Tok is a village of 1400 or so, and it is the first town in Alaska as travelers drive west on the Alaskan Highway. Tonight, we will revise our itinerary. All I know for sure is that we will drive to Fairbanks tomorrow, then Denali and Anchorage. I don't know how long we'll be at each stop, nor do I know where we'll go after Anchorage. Life without the need for a plan is good. Why didn't I think of this sooner?

There are so many pictures on this post that it might be helpful to provide a legend to let you know what you are seeing. So, here goes:

From bottom to top: 1) Cabin in Dawson City where Robert Service wrote many of his memorable poems such as "The Cremation of Sam McGee." 2) Jack London's cabin at Dawson City where "The Call of the Wild" was likely written (This one is for you, Dan). 3) The spartan interior of the London Cabin. 4) The free Yukon River ferry at Dawson City which leads to TTOTW Highway. 5) From an overlook on TTOTW Highway looking down on the Yukon River and Dawson City. 6) TTOTW Highway. 7) More TTOTW Highway. 8) Beautiful downtown Chicken, AK. 9) Hairpin curve on TTOTW Highway. 10) Back on the Alaskan Highway - note the mountains looming in the background. 11) Stuffed Wolves attacking a stuffed Dahl sheep at a gift shop in Tok - looks like a sculpture - doesn't matter, we couldn't afford it.